2-8-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero -Assemble with Modifications

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Neons
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2-8-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero -Assemble with Modifications

Post by Neons »

During the first few months after World War II expanded into the Pacific in late 1941, Japan scored victory after victory, taking control of islands ranging from the Aleutians (off the coast of Alaska) to the Philippines. In January 1942, Japanese troops overpowered an Australian garrison at Rabaul, on the southwestern Pacific island of New Britain (now part of Papua New Guinea). By the summer of 1943, Rabaul served as a major Japanese base, with more than 100,000 troops garrisoned there.
~~~~~~~~~
Did You Know?
The Japanese garrison on Bougainville would not surrender fully until the end of the war. Between 12,000 and 25,000 troops remained holed up on the island, mounting a fierce resistance to the Australian forces left in charge there after December 1944.
~~~~~~~~~
A nice piece of history about the battles here.
http://www.history.com/topics/world-war ... ain-rabaul


I am thinking making this plane in a different paint scheme. I have so many green camouflage planes I think I need the change to a more obscure lighter pattern. These pictures are just something to dwell on for now. It will be something to play with my airbrush and get some more experience with the paint and air settings. There is also a gray undercoat with the same patterns with the usual Japanese military green. Between the 3 shown here something may happen with a new color.
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UPDATE!! 3-15-2016................


Here is the New and Old rebuilt GWS Kit Planes Photo Shoot that I built in this Thread all done in a Flickr Snapshot Collection.
Suspended aerial shots.

https://flic.kr/s/aHskwuMqHQ
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Click Pictures once to enlarge. Click again for zoom.
Attachments
Raubal - Tan pattern.jpg
Bez názvu 1.jpg
Last edited by Neons on Tue Mar 15, 2016 3:26 pm, edited 5 times in total.
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Re: 2-8-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero -Assemble with Modifications

Post by Neons »

To start with I beef up the fuselage with stiffness and more strength. The first thing to do is make room for a larger battery. This involved removing about 1/4 inch from the battery floor. I angled the floor entry to make it a easier loading without friction. This created a loss of the original floor in the entry. I replaced it later with an angled down sub floor.

Next I fold in half 2 pieces of light cardboard and create two new foam bulkheads. After temp install I check them with both fuselage halves to make sure they fit. The tail one has to stop short of the elevator slot. Put aside for now.

Next I want to install the long carbon fiber arrow shaft into the plastic Stik mount. After shimming and gluing into the new motor mount Stik I measure the length from the Stik position to the tail foam bulkhead and saw to the length. After marking the new foam bulkheads in the center for the CF shaft a fit it all in place I trial fit the fuselage halves again. The whole setup is spot glued in place with some hot glue. Now I use a nice snug fit piece of sponge type packing foam beyond the battery to help save firewall damages in a nose crash.


One long piece of 1/4" foam is placed between the cockpit floor and the CF shaft to prevent longitudinal shifting and hot glued in place. Now the whole of all contact surfaces get a nice lathering of the included tube of GWS glue. It is held to dry with elastics and a couple clamps.
Remember: Click on pictures 2 times for super ZOOM
Attachments
2-8-2016 GWS Zero-Fuselage mods (1).jpg
2-8-2016 GWS Zero-Fuselage mods (2a).jpg
Last edited by Neons on Sun Apr 24, 2016 9:20 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: 2-8-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero - Sand the Parts and Fill

Post by Neons »

While the fuselage was drying overnight I sanded down all the kit paint smooth. It is the older foam which has hundreds of little circles from the injection foam and release process. I Lite type spackled it all up and let it also set overnight to dry up. I figure I may find a different color scheme than another green airplane.
Attachments
2-8-2016 GWS Zero-Sand and Spackle.jpg
Last edited by Neons on Tue Feb 09, 2016 7:53 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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2-9-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero - Making a Canopy Mold

Post by Neons »

Today's project. Finish sanding all the blemishes out of the fuselage, wing, and elevator. Next I made a foam cradle for the kit Zero canopy. It just has to hold it level so it does not run over the edge. Nothing fancy. Next I waxed the inside of the canopy with mold release wax and set it in the cradle.

Next I grab some 60 degree water and a plastic tray to mix the Plaster of Paris together before the pour. I did not mix by weight or volume. I just dumped a small pile of powder in the tray and add the water. Stir it like heck to a consistency of loose pancake batter. Pour that batch into the upside down canopy. It filled up as far as the mix went and I stirred it some more with a Popsicle stick to make sure there were no bubbles. I then mixed up another smaller batch and pour that in just about to the top of the flat edge. Stir it again.

I could see it was already starting to kick as I smoothed the top of the Plaster of Paris. I felt the canopy and it generates a small amount of heat as it sets up. I left it all sit there while I ran an errand and to let it cool off. When I got back too the mold I flipped it over and a light tap it fell out and is near perfect. The POP material is not rock hard. The haze in the canopy is just wax and moisture and cleaned up fine. My next step is to smooth light flaws, fill, and then put maybe a thin epoxy mix coating on the outside to make a harder skin than the existing POP. Warm the epoxy a little and it will thin smoothly. . I will preserve the mold to make future canopies for replacement or maybe some other kits. I already have my home made VacuForm machine when needed.

If one can find molding mix called "Ultracal" it is better to work with. It allows 30 minutes working time instead of 10 minutes with POP. It gets rock hard. It is made for making molds. A good product. I think I will make another mold from the engine cowling next. I have easily gone through over a dozen of those. The break and dent easily. After the mold is made I will make a fiberglass cowling from it on the inside for the plane. I will save this one.

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See How I Made a Cowling, Pilot, and The Rest of The Canopy Making Here:
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=171
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Attachments
Pull it apart. The haze in the canopy is moisture and wax. Cleaned up fine.
Pull it apart. The haze in the canopy is moisture and wax. Cleaned up fine.
Let it cure for an hour or more
Let it cure for an hour or more
Pour the Plaster of Paris
Pour the Plaster of Paris
cradle the canopy
cradle the canopy
Last edited by Neons on Thu Mar 17, 2016 9:31 am, edited 4 times in total.
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Re: 2-8-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero -Assemble with Modifications

Post by Neons »

Member Joe asked me a few questions in email. I will post it here as it is useful information for inquiring minds.
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Nice build on the GWS Zero. I'm glad to see these kits being modified to current power systems.
The Zero is my 4th. I love the way they fly. This one was at auction new for $20 last week. Good buy.

I'd like to see a picture of the home built vacuum form machine. Do you use an AC type evacuation pump to power it?
The Vacu Form box is made with peg board, Hard board from the backs of furniture and wing nuts to sandwich the plastic stock. The intake is a PVC pipe adapter that fits the shop vac. The split open top plate has Atlas tacks hammered in around the perimeter. The points stick out slightly and the tack heads cut off. This helps hold the plastic when the top is compressed with the wing nuts.I place the to plate in the oven at about 300 degrees and when it sags I turn on my shop vac and with gloves pull it out of the oven and Woop! It sucks it down and it is ready after some trim. The canopy will be made when I need one. There is a Me-109 canopy and some blisters I made in the picture. The stuff has to be raised off the peg board so the suction pulls it right down to the mold edge. Nothing exotic here. Just adlib home made as it does the job.


Also very glad to see the reliable tower Pro bell motor. I haven't seen one of these for sale at HK or eBay for years.
The TowerPro bell motor flies nice in this plane. I pulled it from the previous Zero. I like them. I have also rewound them. I have a new one I got at the club meeting from the late John DeLuca collection.


Where did you get that engine mount? I haven't ever seen one of these. I've always been stuck modifying an old brushed motor stick mount for this application. These look great and "meld" to your arrow spar nicely to give a solid light weight spine to your models. Keep up the great work.
The plastic mount is from Hobby King. They had them a few years now. The hole is about 5/16" and the arrow shaft is 1/4 inch. I sliced some tube pieces about 3/16 " wide and hot glue it with a little glue. You can dial in some down thrust before the glue sets.They used to have the larger back plate plugin. You have to drill and place a tiny screw into the stem so it will not slide out after awhile. Ask how I know.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/stor ... ouse_.html

If anyone has questions email me and I will only answer things I know and will not feed you BS. I am making a seperate posting just on the molding of parts for this plane from the included kits parts. Check the R/C Building Techniques Hints & Tricks thread list.
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See How I Made a Cowling, Pilot, and The Rest of The Canopy Making Here:
viewtopic.php?f=24&t=171
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Attachments
Separated top plate to install a new piece of plastic.
Separated top plate to install a new piece of plastic.
3 different sizes top plates.Some of the small items I have made with molds alongside the new Zero Canopy mold.
3 different sizes top plates.Some of the small items I have made with molds alongside the new Zero Canopy mold.
A new finished vacu form canopy from the mold.
A new finished vacu form canopy from the mold.
Last edited by Neons on Thu Mar 17, 2016 9:32 am, edited 9 times in total.
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2-11-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero - Split Arrowshaft Spar

Post by Neons »

First I measure a length of Carbon fiber arrow shaft and cut it. Then with a utility knife split it in half the full length. Next I used 2 steel rulers and some clamps to line up my deep cut into the wing to bury each half of the now half moon shaped spars. It can be done a few ways. Vee cut with a new razor an undercut and test fit the spars. If you want to take a little more time you can route it out. I chose the old soldering iron with a flat blade run up against the ruler as a guide.

Next after a trial fit I cut a 1/4" piece of aluminum tubing and I fit the ends together and then crush an indent into the spars. Then some CA glue. Next I used some hot glue and pushed the spars in below the surface. Usually I glue in some foam on top and block sand it in smooth. I just used Lite Spackle troweled in and let it dry overnight.
Attachments
2-11-2016 GWS Zero.- Wing Spar (3).jpg
2-11-2016 GWS Zero.- Wing Spar (2).jpg
2-11-2016 GWS Zero.- Wing Spar (1).jpg
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2-13-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero - Control Surfaces of Balsa

Post by Neons »

Today I worked on the control surfaces to allow me to finish getting the base coat paint applied in the next few days. This is my 4th Zero in 7 years. I flew the hell out of them all. They just handle great. I had problems with the servo extensions being to close to the wing secure screw. It rubbed on the foam and just was in a weak area prone to damage in a crash. So I spread it apart along with moving forward some. The other problem with this early foam is age breakdown. It just gets a little bit softer every year. The control surfaces just get a feel like a marshmallow. The wing gets soft and flexible. So it makes sense to use wood here. The newer EPO foam is slightly heavier and stronger material.
Attachments
2-13-2016 GWS Zero- Balsa Control Surfaces (3).jpg
2-13-2016 GWS Zero- Balsa Control Surfaces (2).jpg
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2-18-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero - Painting

Post by Neons »

I spent a lot of time the last few days on and off doing the shadowing and then laying the spaghetti pattern on the plane. For now I am pretty close to having a unique color scheme similar to the jungles of Rabaul, New Guinea.

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During the first few months after World War II expanded into the Pacific in late 1941, Japan scored victory after victory, taking control of islands ranging from the Aleutians (off the coast of Alaska) to the Philippines. In January 1942, Japanese troops overpowered an Australian garrison at Rabaul, on the southwestern Pacific island of New Britain (now part of Papua New Guinea). By the summer of 1943, Rabaul served as a major Japanese base, with more than 100,000 troops garrisoned there.
Did You Know?

The Japanese garrison on Bougainville would not surrender fully until the end of the war. Between 12,000 and 25,000 troops remained holed up on the island, mounting a fierce resistance to the Australian forces left in charge there after December 1944.

More can be learned here about the occupation of the Japanese in New Britain in the Solomon Islands.
http://www.history.com/topics/world-war ... ain-rabaul
Attachments
2-18-2016 GWS Zero paint (5).jpg
2-18-2016 GWS Zero paint (4).jpg
2-18-2016 GWS Zero paint (3).jpg
2-18-2016 GWS Zero paint (1).jpg
Bottom stays this way as finished
Bottom stays this way as finished
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2-22-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero -Molded a Glass Cowl

Post by Neons »

Using the stock vacu-formed cowl I uses the inside to make another cowl and I gave it a coat of Mold release wax. Then mixed 2 part epoxy and a couple layers of 0.7lb glass cloth. Laid it up and sat overnight. Drill a pinhole up front after slipping some thin plastic flat strips all around to pre break the sticktion. Then a puff of air pressure and a nice POP and it flew out. Had some pinholes and flaws to spackle up, primered, and filled. It still needs a little sanding seen near the gun hole. But it came out very strong and only at 5grams more in weight. Worth it.

I am now molding a pilot and letting it cure. Decals are on and servos installed today also. Still working on the motor angles.
Attachments
A good wet sand will finish the skin on the cowl
A good wet sand will finish the skin on the cowl
2-22-2016 GWS Zero -Glass Cowl (2).jpg
2-22-2016 GWS Zero -Glass Cowl (1).jpg
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2-24-2016 GWS Misubishi Zero - Mold Pilot

Post by Neons »

I had the pilot vacu-form from an on line supplier. He was 1/12 scale and would work. I just needed a bust. Wax the inside mod with mold release. Make 2 filler pieces of foam. This keeps it lighter weight instead of a ball of epoxy. next I mixed a small amount of 15 minute epoxy and gave the molds a coat to make a good surface. Then I installed the foam parts with a coat of epoxy in the half mold and clamped them together upside down. Pour in the balance of the epoxy mix and let it set up the next day.

Trim the parts and give it a light waskh of laquer thinner with a rag. This dulls it down for the paint to bond. After painting the pilot I made a dummy floor with some dark paint finish and glued them into the canopy. My battery wires have space underneath the fake floor. I can use Velcro or a magnet to hold in place. The new radio antenna also helps line up and hold in place too.

Finished model is on the next: Page 2
Attachments
2-24-2016 GWS Zero -Canopy-Pilot (3).jpg
2-24-2016 GWS Zero -Canopy-Pilot (1).jpg
2-24-2016 GWS Zero -Canopy-Pilot (0).jpg
2-24-2016 GWS Zero -Canopy-Pilot (4).jpg
Last edited by Neons on Wed Feb 24, 2016 10:04 pm, edited 3 times in total.
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