Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Proctor Museum kit- Electric Build

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Neons
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Proctor Museum kit- Electric B

Post by Neons »

Thanks Tom, I broke it down so I can work on the fuselage and belly cover. I got some push pull cable and a couple metal digi servos in also. i have the gun mounts to do next and move on to the tail feathers rebuilld. I got all my covering in today also. The side covers both need work mounting also. I may go with strong magnets.
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After mounting the cover.
After mounting the cover.
Before mounting the cover.
Before mounting the cover.
Bob Pacheco
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Re: Nieuport 28c Add Guns- Access covers- Fuel Tank Cover

Post by Neons »

It has been a few days. I try to do at least something every day. I just built a Quad copter in the last 2 days also so it takes away. There was no gun mounts and fuel tank cover with the plane. They were plastic anyways. I made them out of balsa and got them mounted. The guns are bolted down to the cowling with wood or brass mounts. The side covers are sheet metal aluminum just like the real plane. I decided no wood here. It rotates on a spring loaded pin that holds it against the fuselage.. I can hide the nose removal rod in here and a safety switch.
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Top View
Top View
Side View
Side View
Guns Mounted.jpg
Bob Pacheco
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Removable Rudder-Elevator-Stay

Post by Neons »

Got the empennage assembled this week. It had to be thought out and tried before changes were made. This will make transporting and other movements easier. First I had so much animal or insect damage in the tail structures. I had to repair the ribs in the rudder and elevator in many places. The vertical rudder post had to be replaced and then the ribs. The elevator had one side all replaced and the other spliced in areas.

I found that I can make an access door under the elevator to place the wing nut inside and give it a firm mount. The leading edge top screw goes into a blind nut. I think mounting can be done in less than 5 minutes. The tail stiffens up considerably now. The rudder is a pull pull system. The elevator was the same but I am changing it to a single pushrod. It would have complicated the removal. I have to make an elastic for the tail skid as a shock absorber.

I am going to move on to the head rest next so I can get it mounted and fair in the plywood sheeting in that area. There are other parts to make like the dash panel, gun sight and speed indicator. These can go on after covering though. There is also a windshield that can be made later after covering also. There will be some skipping around to do.
Attachments
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (6).jpg
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (5).jpg
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (4).jpg
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (3).jpg
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (2).jpg
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (1).jpg
4-7-2013 Rudder-Elevator Setup (0).jpg
Bob Pacheco
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Fuselage- tail covering

Post by Neons »

Today I finished sealing the covering of the tailplanes and fuselage with Dave Brown SkyLoft nylon covering. It is a nylon fiber covering that is very tough. It looks like silkspan and is very light weight. You cannot push a pencil through this material easily. It is very hard to work with. it goes on wet and has to be put of with a coat of clear dope. I used some Aerogloss that was off color as it had been hanging around a while. Consistency was very good though. In many cases I had to use CA to make a bond while wet. As the material dries it shrinks tight. This will be a good base for my 4 color camouflage.

I am going to use waterbase paint to finish the plane. The fabric has a nice resilient feel like silk but looks more like the silkspan though. For my next covering of the wing I am switching over to Polyspan covering. It uses StixIt from Sig to bond the material. It goes on dry and is tightened with heat. It is similar cloth material like Skypoly but will be better under the wing with the under camber ribs.I work on the plane now when I am not flying or repairing my field damages. There is no rush now as the season is here to fly now.

You can notice the opening under the stabilizer. It will have access plates held with a alignment pin and magnets to help facilitate tail removal. I am using heavy duty ball socket connectors for quick removal for transporting the plane in my truck.
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5-15-2013 Neiuport Fuse covered (0).jpg
5-15-2013 Neiuport Fuse covered (1).jpg
5-15-2013 Neiuport Fuse covered (2).jpg
5-15-2013 Neiuport Fuse covered (3).jpg
Bob Pacheco
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Proctor Museum kit- Electric B

Post by chistech »

Looking really nice Bob. The one thing I love about projects like this is how good builders come up with their own unique ways to over come different obstacles like needing to remove the tailplane. Keep up the good work.
Ted Brito
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Proctor Museum kit- Electric B

Post by Neons »

Being in the middle of flying season I have not worked on the plane. just keeping my planes in trim before and after flying is taking up a lot of my time. I will be back for the finish when the weather swings to not so good days later on. I am about ready to cover the wings next. Thanks Ted
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Wings Are Covered

Post by Neons »

Well in the last week I finally caught up on the small repairs to my field basher and indoor planes. So I brought the 4 wing halves down from storage and prepared them for the Skyloft coverings. I spent the last week sanding and repairing some mice damage over the years from the previous owner storage. Skyloft was not easy to work with but it is very strong and looks and feels like silk. It is a poly material. Silk is catapillar insect matter and breaks down after many years. The Skyloft has to go on wet and grows after 10 minutes. It is stretching and and pinning and water spray it to slow the evaporation until it gets bonded.

The old way was to paint the wood with clear dope a couple coats. Then lay it up and give the Skyloft another coat and hope it bonds before drying material shrinks and pulls away. I came up with an easier way of using thin CA glue while wet. It dries fast and bonds well. It makes the whole job faster and easier. You can see a whitish line. It is the CA when dry from the water. When the Skyloft tightens it is beautiful and I bet you can bounce a quarter on it too. So smooth. Now I have to get ready to paint the primer filler to prep for the finish waterbase painting.
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12-13-2013 Nieuport 28c- Upper wing cover.jpg
12-13-2013 Nieuport 28c- Wings covered.jpg
Bob Pacheco
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Proctor Museum kit- Electric B

Post by tomapowa »

Very Nice Bob! Looks like it's going to be a big floater with all that wing area.
I'm still amazed by how light my Super Stearman flies even though after electric conversion, it comes out over 18lbs. I hope to also get working on a few projects over the holidays such as my long awaited electrified ME-109 that had been on the bench now for almost a year! ;) Keep up the great work and Happy Holidays!
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Re: Nieuport 28c 1/4 Scale - Proctor Museum kit- Electric B

Post by Neons »

Hi Tom,
Thank you much, I would like to see the Stearman some day flying. Any videos?

I was thinking about the use of Polyspan. I got it in and was concerned as it tears like silkspan and would not be a good choice after all on this size plane because of its strength. I have heard many of the light Solartex,Koverall, and others are real good. My skills with iron on anything is not the best. I am good with the older techniquess with silkspan days of the 50-60's. This Skyloft is like silkspan in many ways and also silk. I have a old CL stunter on my wall I made in 1962. It was silk covered. I have to be careful handling it as it is breaking down just with light touches.

I just covered an old wing to test out some painting other than the use of Aero-Gloss clear. I have put on 3 coats of Miniwax water polyurethane with a mix of Talcum powder. Light sanding and warm air blowing speeds up my painting. It all sealed up tight well and ready for spray painting. With water base paint it is low buildup and stays light weight also. i did find 3 pinholes that did not close up. i just rubbed it with white glue and it is gone. I sprayed the first coat but it was not as good as brushing as an initial coat. It creates minute droplets through the pores. The second and 3rd coat. It dried very smooth and feels the way I want it.The Talc helps a lot. Fabric. Nice.

I will say there are some downfalls using the Skyloft material. I have built many planes over the years and gained some experiences. I, would not recommend using this material if a builder never used this before and is not aware of some of the problems that will be encountered. The use of thin CA was a good way to get over the worst in applying the material. The others are smaller problems.
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Re: Nieuport 28c - Clear Polyurethane Coatings on My Wing Pa

Post by Neons »

I have a picture here of my sealed wing panel. I tried to get a reflection to show what it looks like. It is very tight and waterproof now. This is as I say my first trial with Skyloft and I am happy with how it came out going at it almost blindly. It is as good as I have hoped for. Here is what I found out that made it succeed for me.

In applying the Waterbase clear Miniwax Poly-u it continues to wet the Skyloft and make it loose again. It was necessary to do it in order to get the pores in the material closed up with lots of talcum powder. I did all 4 panels of 8 sides and then hung them for the night using a 1 inch chip brush. I also did use my heat gun backed away to warm it up and evaporate the water and retighten up again before the next panel got a coat.The next day I repeated the same ritual and hung again. This was necessary because the wood was still damp. I just did not want to over shrink the material.

Next day I sanded every panel with 400 wet dry paper. The sealing looked good except a couple flaws that white glue and talc took care of. Waterbase poly does not allow the material to harden up to sand the fuzz off. The next 2 coats were shot with my small airbrush using Miniwax Oilbase Polyurethane. It took me about 2 hours to get it all done and I hung to dry. Before the next coat the paint tightened and waterproofed all the panels. I could sand the fuzz down now. The next coat was a repeat and that is where I am now. Skipped work today and I will sand tomorrow. I still do not recommend Skyloft for a newcomer.

Today, I picked up some tan Behr paint sampler and I am going to do all the undersides with a light coat. It will be thinned about 50% and it will tint the finish.I will layout all the camo pattern and continue laying the colors. I am thinking doing the #12 Nieuport 28 scheme in the pictures. A tan paint chip is on the small wing panel.

I found that it is not necessary to use waterbase Polyurethane on silkspan as the initial coating as it will swell the silkspan. If I did use polyurethane I would use the oilbase to seal it after it is bonded. Maybe with a light added talc also. I have not tried too initially bond sikspan to a plane using polyurethane because the surrounding paper may dry faster than the paint. Maybe it will work. It is something I have to try. Once it is bonded (clear doped?) and sealed waterproof coat (oil Poly-u) I could then continue finishing a plane in waterbase finish. I have been doing it all along with foam models though with great success using 0.75oz. fiberglass cloth for additional strength.

CLICK the pictures of the plane to get a Zoomed in view....
Attachments
Nieuport 28c - Compilation Num 12.jpg
Nieuport 28c -Compilation Num 12.jpg
12-16-2013 Wings Clear Coated (2).jpg
Bob Pacheco
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